Srinagar in September 2013

“If you love someone, you say it, right then, out loud. Otherwise, the moment just passes you by.” – My Best Friend’s wedding 

View from the room of Peacock houseboat no 5.

As far are loving somebody is concerned, I have included it as a batch process in the backdrop of life. It shall be found whenever it shall be found. However, until then I have decided to work on everything I tend to love intuitively, travel being one, and taken up seriously on not letting the “moments pass me by.”

This year, Kashmir picked me and I decided to celebrate a year of getting older in a place that stands out as exotic for its unprecedented, breathtaking natural beauty. This has been my third visit, once as a toddler and the second as a school kid, making this the only one where I can share my experience uncompelled for a school essay.

There’s a ‘troubled’ dimension to this paradise for a couple of decades now and those impressions cannot be easily dismissed. 

A picture is worth a thousand words

The thrill of a weekend brings with it some Friday Bollywood releases for the metropolitan masses, while Srinagar, on the other hand, shows no fervor for mall culture or multiplexes. Four of the five theatres that existed have been converted to hospitals or other social institutions. Kashmiris don’t prefer paying visits to theatre gatherings that could become targets to terrorism. Nonetheless, the songs of Aashiqui 2 have emerged absolute favorites with most of the population. A September tourist of 2013 would have gotten to hear those on cell phones gallivanting through Nigeen and Dal Lakes on leisurely Shikara rides. I noticed Kashmiris don’t smile much but some of whom I met bowled me over with their warmth. Everybody I chatted up with, and my interface to Kashmiris has been cab drivers, service staff in hotels and houseboats, pony riders among others, has an opinion on politics and fiercely know who should run their government for the benefit of the future. I won’t boast as if I know their souls but spending a week in a place where men and women work together rather industriously growing vegetables for home meals, navigating water traffic through kayaks, collecting lotus leaves as food for cattle, and some modest traders who take overzealous pride in showcasing Kashmiri creations to potential customers, I returned with a feeling where I wanted to indulge myself in the history of the place and better understand the ‘troubled’ piece.  The vegetation of fir and pine at the highest points of sea levels, landscapes with crystal clear flowing water are just complementary bonus. In the wee morning hours of my birthday when I wondered what is it to have lived, I said to myself, “To be affected like someone touched your soul,” and that is exactly what Srinagar did to me.

NIGEEN LAKE, SRINAGAR

Some gold spotted enroute Khyber

As part of tiny research I came across a teaser that read, “The onset of autumn, perhaps Kashmir's loveliest season, is towards September, when green turns to gold and then to russet and red.” However, realistically, Srinagar was just about turning to gold. I learned from an ex college mate of mine on my return flight, who is born and brought up in Srinagar, that to see the gold extravaganza October 15 through October 30 should be the best time. This is also the time when chill starts to set in. The last week of September during the day in Srinagar is hot. I didn’t want to step out even for a walk. While we, my travel mate Jitendra Singh and I, stayed inside during the day, I watched kingfishers flutter their wings over the Nigeen Lake to feed themselves fish. I was advised to stay at Nigeen Lake instead of Dal because it was less crowded and commercial. I would recommend Nigeen Lake as well, especially to bird lovers. A morning shikara ride around the lake between 6:45 – 8:00 is the best time for bird photography where light works in your favor. Kingfishers, pied, common and white-breasted, all are ready to prune and pose for the camera. One can get up close and personal with them. An evening Shikara ride should start at 4:30 p.m. and take you around the Dal Lake and back in three hours.  Eagles hover around the Dal Lake and the sunset is absolutely gorgeous. Make sure to carry some warm clothing because the evenings get chilly. The Shikara ride costs you 600 INR per hour and any shopping time over the Dal Lake is part of the Shikara ride ;-). We stayed at Peacock houseboats and absolutely loved the stay. Food was wonderful. Make sure to ask houseboat no. 5 or 6. I stayed in 5 but both are good and hosted by wonderful staff, Din and Tanvir, respectively.

GULMARG

Exquisite Khyber property

After two nights in Srinagar, we travelled to Gulmarg, which is the highest location from sea level. Gulmarg shows off an unpredictable weather; it can rain anytime but here’s where you get the chill in September. One has to carry warm clothing. We stayed at Khyber, an absolute spectacular piece of property. I was happy to devote part of my (birth) day in company of such exquisite luxury. We had planned two nights here and were told two nights may see two much for Gulmarg. Nevertheless we decided to execute as per plan. The Gondola ride, only attraction of this place was closed but that really didn’t disappoint us. Instead we decided to trek from the hotel to Drung waters in Tangmarg. This trek, walking through the Pine and Fir forests, was the highlight of Gulmarg. Not being able to hit the gym on vacations doesn’t really mean one cannot work out. Trekking shall help you keep the calories in check. Our guide, Manzoor, who was also the liveliest person we met, shed 10-15 kgs just by taking tourists to and fro on Gulmarg treks. Heading out at 9:00 is the morning is perfect. The weather is nippy cold with stunning sunshine for company. En route the trek we came across a remarkable plateau with astonishing view. When we got back, we were hunger struck wolverines. The dazzling dinner menu at Khyber was the best we could ask for except that this place has one, unforgiving failing: they don’t serve wines (or alcohol I think). WTF moment, right? Turns out the owner is not in favor of wines (alcohol) being served.

Someone to make me a Kahawa each eve ;-)

The next day we could have done the Frozen Lake or plateau uphill but we were six months late for spring. So instead Manzoor decided to take us trout fishing to the Drung waters. This was another, slightly tedious trek on pipes and stones but all in vain. I would say, “we were fooled” because later we learned there is no trout in Drung. Manzoor and his companion who took us fishing, believed otherwise. From experience I would advise “no trout fishing” in Drung. Do that in the Lidder river in Pahalgam with permission. That afternoon as we left for Pahalgam, Sajad, service staff at Khyber, advised a visit to Gulmarg in February. Gulmarg is at it’s gorgeous best in winters: thick ice laden mountains for all skiing activity, which is now fostered professionally for amateurs and professionals alike. Everywhere around the property one can find snow. How gorgeous is that? I shall visit Gulmarg again sometime in February and bring myself a date: for some skiing among other adventurous things.

PAHALGAM

Quick guide to travel distances around Srinagar

Gulmarg to Pahalgam is three-four hours of drive depending on stops and therefore one may wish to evaluate deeper on planning Srinagar and surrounding excursions depending on their vacations agendas.

A view of of Pahalgam from Aru valley

View from the Heevan courtyard

As you drive into Pahalgam from Gulmarg, you leave behind mountainous terrain and move into the earthy extravaganza of golden fields over a stretch followed by flowing water from the Lidder river over another. We stayed at Hotel Heevan, which means a flower in the forest, and the best bet to stay in Pahalgam because it is the only property that has the Lidder river view from the window and the front yard. There are other lavish and lovely properties but none with the same view. The rooms are a let down because they are old world and we were in the Khyber-frame of mind, however it may have to do with some legislation that prohibits building any more hotel properties in Pahalgam or renovating them.
On a wonderful early morning, one can simply sit in the front yard and enjoy the music of rattling river water. The front yard at Heevan is adorned in flora, a Kashmir-like sighting, which draws in Himalayan bulbuls and a few other not so people-friendly birds.

Immortalized 'Betaab'

On the first day, I took a pony to Baisaran, the famous plateau of the place: vast expanse of greens surrounded by trees around which yesteryear actors and actresses would have flaunted some dance moves. Over the plateau there’s not much to do except for walk around and revel in the greens. Some small taparis are set up where I got my cup of coffee.

After the pony ride at walking distance from the hotel, we went to the deer park which was awful and where we wanted to teach a bunch of kids and grown ups about behavior towards caged animals.  However we let go of the knowledge sharing opportunity to avoid sounding like visitors who preach behavior. The golden sunset of the evening was spent at Betaab valley, a valley named after the hit romantic film. “Sunny Deol and Amrita Singh have effectively been immortalized,” I was convinced. As the gold turned to dusk, we took a quick drive around Aru valley that presented a magnificent view of Pahalgam from a hilltop. Aru valley presents opportunities for camping and hiking around Pahalgam!

While modest living is a routine sight across Srinagar (and more than half of India), Pahalagam is the only place around Srinagar where I experienced money being solicited by a child. Now, I don’t wish to promote the act, but until I was equipped to run an institution that offered self reliant opportunities for the deprived or found such an institution worthy of donation, I gathered I can offer some money for a picture!! A couple of the hotel Heevan housekeeping staff were uncool to list their names on a visiting card and cram it in my hand for a good review on trip advisor. That’s not a way to win brownie points now, is it?

DACHIGAM SANCTUARY, SRINAGAR

Jitendra Singh (l) and Manzoor on Gulmarg trek

I scheduled a visit to Dachigam sanctuary as the final highlight of the trip and so we travelled back to Srinagar for our one-night last stop. Dachigam is around 16-20 kms from Srinagar airport and a 45 minutes drive from Peacock houseboats.  Unfortunately, let down by our cab driver and mismanagement, we didn’t get the sightings we had hoped for. However, I had a chance of a brief conversation with Nazir Mallik, a wild life expert who knows the sanctuary at the tip of his hands. I saved his number and shall look forward to my next trip during which time I hope to see the grandeur that this sanctuary offers.

Visit to the Dachigam sanctuary and trout fishing needs prior written permission from designated authorities. Please make sure to have one and take note that the sanctuary is closed on weekends.

The idea of a vacation was to do the planning all by ourselves so we chose not to go through any tours or travels. Perhaps, we like the project management of our professional lives experienced in the real world ;-). We didn’t set a budget for the trip and simply decided to explore the place and experience hotels first hand. It came to approximately 33,500 INR per person for eight days (from September 21-28) after some good discounting from friends and coupons. Flight tickets booked three months in advance cost 10000 INR.

I have been so smitten by Srinagar that I want this visit to mean more. So, I shall look forward to visiting again, hoping to make an enduring connection.

More pictures can be found on facebook.